The history of this incredible island is palpable as soon as you step off the boat. The old buildings, still in tact are sparse among the dry open fields. The mountains sit high in the background, while the sea crashes into the cliffs that have been engraved with millions of fossils. Maria Island was one of the highlights of our trip, read on to find out why!
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Whitewater Wall, Freycint Peninsula TAS/ 📷@justybumpstead
Before heading anywhere new, Justin and I usually do a fair bit of research on the area. Using various different Google searches and following along with other van life/ travel blogs, we normally find a collection of different spots to check out in each region, but Tasmania was a whole different ball game. Ever since we decided to do this trip we’d been talking, dreaming and therefore researching about Tassie. We looked into each national park, waterfall, mountain range and wildlife reserve, until we had two–three pages worth of research and several handmade maps marked with all the spots we couldn’t wait to see. So, as we began travelling further down the east coast towards Freycient National Park I was almost worried that the beauty of Wineglass Bay and Hazards Beach would be obstructed by the amount of photos and articles I had read online about the area. But as we drove into the park and Mount Amos emerged through behind the winding highway, I realized just what we were in for. The enormous mountain ranges, beautiful bays and towering bluffs make Freycinet one of the biggest tourist attractions in Tasmania and we were finally privy to why. We knew it would be beautiful, but we would need to make sure that we could get the experience we wanted by trying our best to beat the crowds.
Side note: If you’re visiting Tasmania and heading down the east coast definitely make time to check out the Friendly Beaches. On our way into Freycinet Justin and I stopped on a search for a campsite and found a 5km stretch of endless beach and an awesome free campsite. We stayed and admired the vast white beach and the seemingly floating lava rocks that lay in the sand. We spent a lot of the evening watching the waves wash over the rocks and be sucked back through the crevasses.
Friendly Beaches TAS/ 📷@justybumsptead
As we drove in into the Freycinet Peninsula, the sheer scale of the mountains and the beauty of the bays that sit perfectly underneath them caught us off guard. Silent and in awe, we drove up into the national park where the most of the Great Short Walks in the area begin.
TIP: The book of Great Short Walks is a guide put together by the Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Service and was our guide throughout our entire Tasmanian adventure. It holds 60 awesome walks ranging from grade 1-4 (Easy- Very Difficult) as well as guides, maps and some descriptions on the walk, as well as the surrounding areas.
Freycinet National Park, Freycinet Peninsula TAS/ 📷me
Whitewater Wall, Freycinet Peninsula TAS/ 📷@justybumpstead
When we arrived we quickly realized how busy Freycinet National Park is during the summer holidays. The HUGE (4-5 lot) car park was completely full. We quickly decided to change our plans and head to Whitewater Wall campsite and come back to hike Wineglass Bay at sunrise. Whitewater Wall, a free campsite about 17 minutes from the car park, was in theory, the perfect place to stay the night. Unfortunately when looking on Wiki Camps I didn’t realized that this site was along another, and may I say more challenging, 4WD track. Oops! We made it through and it was well worth it because Whitewater Wall itself was absolutely gorgeous and the campsites were spacious and free for the taking.
At sunset we walked down to Bluestone Bay where I might have had the best wipeout of our trip so far. Ask Justin; he’ll probably just laugh at the thought of it. It was pretty funny. I fell right on my ass and then slid down a hill for quite sometime. Anyway, the sunset was spectacular enough for me to completely forget about the cuts on my hands and the bruising of my ego.
Sunset at Bluestone Bay, Freycinet Peninsula TAS/ 📷me
At the crack of dawn we hopped into our trusty stead and carefully made our way back to the national park where we hiked the 4-5 hour Wineglass Bay & Hazards Beach circuit. The first climb is mostly stairs until you reach the magnificent and cutely named Wineglass Bay.
Wineglass Bay Lookout, Freycinet National Park TAS/ 📷me
The white beach scooped out by a sea of blue is something extra spectacular in the hazy light of sunrise. We continued along the 11km track through the very white, but extremely windy, Hazards beach and then along the outskirts of Coles Bay. Hungry, pooped and ready for a swim, we made our way to Coles Bay where we found a perfect spot for Frenchie to sit along the rocky beach. We ended up spending the next day and a half snorkeling in Coles Bay and relaxing in the sunshine.
Coles Bay, Freycinet Peninsula TAS/ 📷@justybumpstead
Coles Bay at Sunset, Freycinet Peninsula TAS/ 📷me
On our way out of the park we stopped at Freycinet Marine Farm where Justin treated me to an early birthday lunch of fresh oysters, scallops and a beautiful bottle of Riesling that was made in the area. (This restaurant is a little hyped up so don’t go out of your way to get there, but if the time is right and the lines are to a minimum I would definitely suggest the Ginger Soy Oysters). It was the perfect way to end our time in Freycinet and more importantly a nice little toast to our next adventure…. MARIA ISLAND.
Bay of Fires, TAS / 📷 @justybumpstead
Between the plunging waterfalls, crystal blue beaches, active wildlife and mountain ranges that seem to last for days, I can easily say that Tasmania is my personal favourite Australian state. Okay, I know I have only seen 4 out of the 7 states, but forgive me when I say they are all going to have to be pretty spectacular after our last three weeks on this incredible island. Tasmania is a state of what seems like ever-changing landscapes. As you drive down the Tasman Highway the dreamy green pastures filled with cows and sheep instantly draw you in. The rolling hills in the background and the hazy sun dancing on top of the wheat fields brings you a sense of ease that you somehow cannot articulate. Then suddenly you are along the eastern coastline where the water is as blue as the sky and the sand is as soft and white as flour. The boulders that stand along the coastline have been stained a coppery red and seem as if they are as old as time. You then drive inland and the mountains ranges go on for miles and if you look at them closely you can see how time has warn them down and how they have persisted on throughout the ages. Massive craters and pinnacle rocks that stretch higher than skyscrapers stick right out of the bluest ocean you’ve ever laid eyes on. Trust me, this state is fucking wicked and I haven’t even gotten to the good stuff yet.
We arrived in Devonport on January 22nd via the Spirit of Tasmania ferry. For the 9 to 11 hour adventure we opted for the private cabin. Considering it was a little pricier, we were very happy to find clean linens, a great (hot) shower and our own private view of the Bass Strait.
Frenchie sitting pretty at Bakers Beach, TAS / 📷@justybumpstead
We had three weeks on the island state and wanted to try to make sure we could use our time to the fullest. This meant getting started right away. We don’t usually drive at dusk to avoid collisions with critters and friends who like to come out to the road, but we figured we would hit the ground running and make our way towards Bakers Beach on the northern coast. We drove through stunning farmland encompassed in a remarkably colourful sunset as the wildlife started to appear. Before we parked the van we saw wallabies, eastern quoll’s and little pademelons (miniature wallaby-type creatures). I think at that moment we both knew just how incredible Tasmania was going to be. Later that night, after a quick bite, we watched the Wolf Blood Super moon light up the entire sky. It was quite a warm welcome.
We started driving from Bakers Beach down towards the Tamar Valley. Known for it’s famous “wine route,” we decided it would be rude not to partake in a couple cheeky tastings. Even though it was only 11am, we drove down along the Tamar River and checked out Vèlo Wines and the Tamar Ridge Vineyards. A little tipsy and feeling snacky, we decided to stop into the nearby town of Launceston.
Bridestowe Lavender Estate, TAS/ 📷@justybumpstead
We got some groceries and stopped at the famous Cataract Gorge, where for the first time in my life I saw a wild peacock. After lunch we drove east to the Bridestowe Lavender Fields. Lavender is honestly one of my favourite plants, smells, essential oils, etc. so needless to say I was very excited to stand amidst the 260 acres of pure purple aromatherapy. To cap it all off we enjoyed one of their homemade lavender infused ice creams!
Taking it all in @Bridestowe Lavender Estate TAS/ 📷@justybumpstead
Me and Frenchie @Bridestowe Lavender Estate, TAS/ 📷@justybumpstead
Finding free camping in Tasmania was not a problem at all. Almost everywhere we visited had either free campsites, or unmarked land that we took the liberty to stay on. The only issue is that lots of the campsites within Tassie are along 4WD tracks and although Frenchie is quite a beast on a gravel road, she is not a 4WD. So when we arrived at what we thought was “Little Blue Lake” we realized that we were really going to have to push the van to get to our spot for the night. We drove slowly and carefully down the dirt track and found a rocky spot along the lake. It ended up that the maps had taken us on a wild goose chase and we were wrong side of the lake. When we settled into our spot we went down to the water and found a group of caravans along the other side. Exhausted from our long day and what felt like endless kilometres of gravel roads, we decided to take our chances and stay on the more secluded side of the lake.
The real Little Blue Lake, TAS/ 📷 me
We got settled, went for a swim and made an Asian Style Chicken and Rice (see recipe in taste). The stars that night were just as bright and beautiful as I would have imagined them during the Jurassic period. I woke up and went down to the lake for a morning shower. It felt so incredible to be alone among the trees and the mountains, cleaning off in what felt like my own private lake. Once we were on the road we found the sign for the real Little Blue Lake, which happened to be a lot bluer than the one we had previously been at. This one was so blue it was almost electric. We had a good laugh about our mishap but were happy with our choice to stay where we had. It’s always fun to have our own personal spot and not have to share.
Later that afternoon we arrived in Eddystone Point along the northern most part of the Bay of Fires. This is where we both fell in love with Tasmania. While Justin was shooting I decided to walk the short track to the nearby Larc Beach and what I found was unlike anything I’d ever seen before. The track opened up on top of the red stained rocks to white sand that glistened in the sunshine and teal water that seemed to stretch on for miles. The statuesque boulders carved out alcoves along the white sand and the water was so clear that the blue skies reflection sparkled along the shoreline. I walked down to find I was the only one there. As I was walking down the beach I was overwhelmed by the utter natural beauty and the how breathtaking this planet is when we take care of it. There was no litter, no people, no pollution; just me and the waves and it was extraordinary. Eventually I brought Justin over and we spent the rest of the afternoon revelling in this little slice of heaven.
Larc Beach, Bay of Fires TAS/ 📷 @justybumpstead
Relaxing at my new favourite spot, Larc Beach, Bay of Fires TAS/ 📷@justybumpstead
The next couple of days were glorious. We spent most of our time at The Gardens, which is a small beach along the mid-section of the Bay of Fires. The beach was beautiful and the water was the perfect temp for a day of swimming and relaxing. We also went inland to see St. Columba falls, a waterfall right outside Pyangana. There we spent hours taking in the 90ft. cascade and cooling off in the shallow pools near the bottom.
Happy as a clam @St. Columba Falls, Pyengana TAS/ 📷@justybumpstead
St. Columba Falls, Pyengana TAS/ 📷Me
Pyengana also had “The Pub in the Paddock” a wicked old pub where you can feed Priscilla the beer drinking pig. Justin and I had a couple schooners there and chatted with Shawn the owner’s husband. The pub has been around since the 1880’s and if Shawn didn’t tell us enough about it, the walls sure did. Covered in old signage, notes of worldly currencies and pictures from when the establishment first opened, made it one of the coolest country pubs we’ve been to on this trip.
We capped off this incredible week with an inland hike at the Douglas-Apsley National Park. Our morning was spent hiking through the bush that eventually opened up to the Douglas Apsley gorge. The gorge was slightly dry but we found a sweet pool a little further into our hike. We spent a while there, swimming and enjoying the sunshine.
Douglas Apsley Gorge, TAS/ 📷@justybumpstead
After only a week in this state I started to realize just what we were in for. The northern east coast gave us awesome hiking, towering waterfalls and some of the most magical beaches we’ve ever seen. Follow along as our whirlwind Tassie adventure continues south to Freycinet National Park!